Thursday, July 7, 2011

Lingering Over Alfresco Dinin



My new favorite barbecue item is a prawn at the very large end of the spectrum that, when lightly marinated in a bit of olive oil, lemon juice, a bit of mashed garlic, and a fresh herb of the moment, tastes like lobster when it comes off the grill. I don't know why lobster has been on my mind so often lately. Perhaps I associate a luxurious indulgence with the sweet meat and slightly chewy texture. You can't gulp down one of these prawns or a chunk of lobster meat. The give of the meat between your teeth makes the taste linger. A nice sensation that makes you pace your intake with the conversation and other dishes on the table.

Strange to think of the pace of eating a meal. Yet, when outdoors in your own garden or the lovely patio (with or without a view) at your favorite eatery, isn't pace the very thing to be considered? Why indulge if only to gulp the meal, tasting little of the preparation or elements of the food? How does one take in the ambiance if the food is consumed in a hurry? Doesn't one go with the other?

This summer I'm committed to do a great deal of barbecuing. The rains of this past year have given my garden impetus to put forth the best blossoms and fruits of the last decade. Everything stands tall and full. Fragrances fill the air, from the rosemary bushes to the citrus trees and the sage and geraniums in between. And all is met with great joy by the honeybees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and people. Even the local feral cats can be found sunning themselves on the mulch. All seem welcome in the garden and I for one have chosen a season's pass.

So now we're out there, why would we not dine and linger? Why wouldn't I choose foods that stand up to the weather while I sit on the slider and chat with my family and friends? And of course each dish should also stand up to the taste buds, at once savory and succulent--succulent being one of those words that in the pronunciation we mimic the experience they define.

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

July 4th Barbecue

Yesterday I enjoyed the company of my husband and several precious friends, all of whom I consider family in the best understanding of that concept. So what I prepared needed to be delightful and could be familiar. Cooking for family leaves lots of room for repeats as long as those dishes have been well received in the past and may even hold memories for these special people. That's one of the many reasons I love to cook on such occasions. We often enjoy the same dishes, foods I love to cook and that hold previous memories of tastes and times already shared.

The other thing about special occasions and particularly barbecues is the requirement of foods withstanding the heat of the day. I don't want to prepare anything that contains mayonnaise because of the obvious problems of mayonnaise sitting out in warm weather. Also the freshest foods can wilt in the shade or the length of time outdoors. I especially don't want fragile foods because they require me to be alert to the consequences of the day on the dishes rather than to the conversation and interaction of my friends.

One other thing I've learned over time is that big amounts of food all prepared by me is ridiculous. The effort and even expense of such preparations also takes away from everyone's enjoyment as I worry about this or that, or my friends feel a need to sample and comment on the food rather than indulge in the company and discussions of whatever catches our attention. And I love it when people bring things to share. Their efforts are more deserving of attention than that of my own. Each dish brought moves the spotlight to the friend who made it. That wandering spotlight is exactly the fun of the day as each of us enters and exits through sharing, praise and wit.

So the menu yesterday was simple. I made a bread salad from the freshest of ingredients and just enough to be consumed allowing for second-helpings. We barbecued prawns and fresh corn to be enjoyed with butter and lemon juice heated on the grill. Cheese and olives plus some tasty pickled veggies served as appetizers. The pickled veggies were by my dear friend Anne who is the reason I'm writing a food blog--her cold-pickled vegetables were an old recipe, tried and true. Then new friends Vanessa and Ryan provided the "indulgences" from whiskey sours to a Filipino donut of sweet coconut and rice flour made American with a center of chocolate. Between the delightful high of the cocktail to the sweetness of the donut, Vanessa and Ryan bookended our meal with fun.

And as the evening closed, everyone had a chance to talk one-on-one and with the whole group. We learned more about each other and widened our enjoyment and celebration to include new stories, different aspects of old favorite subjects and fresh memories to keep. I hope you did the same.d

Southwestern Chocolate Brownie Cookies

Every food blog should have recipes, right? And the first one should have chocolate in it, of course. So here's my own variation on several cookie and brownie recipes into a recipe that everyone "savors" as different from "devours," though few are ever left on the plate.

Southwestern Brownie Cookies

2 circles (2 to 3 ounces each) Ibarra chocolate
4 to 5 squares unsweetened baking chocolate (4 to 5 oz.)
(total chocolate should equal 10 ounces)

8 Tbs. butter

1 1/4 cups sugar
3 eggs, or 4 if you like cake-like brownies
2 tsp. orange oil plus 1 tsp. vanilla extract (you can substitute an orange liqueur)

1 1/4 cup flour (5.3 oz.)
1 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt

2 cups chopped pinon nuts, toasted in a 325° oven for ten minutes

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 325°.

2. Microwave chocolate and butter in a large bowl on HIGH for two minutes, stir, and microwave for one more minute. Stir until chocolate is completely melted and smooth.

3. Stir in sugar. Mix in eggs, orange oil, and vanilla. Stir in flour mixture. Fold in nuts.

4. Drop rounded tablespoonfuls onto an ungreased or parchment-lined cookie sheet. Bake for 12 minutes only.

5. Let sit on cookie pan for a minute before removing to wire cooling racks. Cool thoroughly before storing in an airtight container.

Makes about three dozen

Comments:
These are dangerous. They really taste like brownies in cookie-form. They are also intensely fragrant with the spices in the Ibarra chocolate and the potent aroma of the orange oil.

Also don't you dare enter this recipe in a cooking contest. They are mine!

Saturday, July 2, 2011

EVOO -- Extra Virgin Olive Oil

I love to cook Mediterranean cuisines, especially the Middle East end of the geography. I relish a good fresh feta and delight in olives from the regions. I've even learned the difference between herb use by Turkish and Greek cooks, the former love their basil and the later their oregano. I now grow both to have fresh always on hand. But the key to all those great dishes is olive oil.

Some cooks have one kind of olive oil for dipping, another for salads and yet another for cooking. And some call it EVOO, which for me is a hardship. Yes, a hardship. To say "olive oil" is to roll the tongue and pucker the lips much like the great smack of taste the right olive oil rewards the mouth with. And having different ones for different applications is really beyond me. I say that as six different bottles sit on my counter as I write this!

Of course only two of those bottles are open. The first is my primary olive oil now for several years, Zatis ("Delightfully Turkish"). Zatis is also the name of a small wonderful restaurant on Piedmont Avenue in Oakland, CA, not far from my home. I turned to Zatis olive oil after enjoying so many meals there. As a result I discovered an inexpensive (most often $13 per 750ml bottle) with lots of fruity taste and a warm feel on the tongue. (My olfactory abilities are quite limited, but my taste buds seem to make up for the deficiency. As a result, I have to stick my whole face in a bunch of basil but can find an after-taste in canola oil that most say doesn't exist.) So Zatis is my usual first choice, and several bottles usually await my use in my pantry.

But earlier this year Zatis was unavailable or possibly the price had temporarily risen. I can't remember which but the effect was the same--I went in search of a new mainstay. I tried several brands keeping cost a consideration. I use so much olive oil that I cannot afford those that approach or exceed $20 per bottle. So I tried sale brands and even the organic Zatis. None pleased me, and that left a vacancy on my counter.

Then I opened a small bottle ... yes, it was also inexpensive ... of a California olive oil I had purchased on a trip to Morro Bay. I thought I was buying something local and particular to that area, but I wasn't, as I will soon reveal. The big surprise was that I loved the stuff. Loved it. And the topper is that, when I mentioned my find to my dear friend Lee who participates in a California olive oil quality panel (I can't remember the name) and whom I consider a great expert in California food products, he said it was his latest best find! That sealed the deal for me. I'd found an alternative inexpensive olive oil that even an expert proclaimed a winner. (BTW Lee is known to readers as Jon Cory, author of A Plague of Scoundrels, a very funny novel about a failing stand-up comedian who time-travels back to London two weeks before the Black Plague.)

So what is my find? The company is California Olive Ranch out of the north Sacramento Valley. The website is www.californiaoliveranch.com and there you will find a wonderful variety of select olive oils and blends. All of them ... yes, all of them ... are wonderful. And you don't have to order them from the website. When I discovered this olive oil, I also found that I couldn't find more easily. That is until I left a request for help at the website. Mike Forbes, who represents California Olive Ranch in my area, responded with all the energy and information I needed--Whole Foods carries the full line and Piedmont Grocery, my first choice of places to shop, also would be carrying it again. (If you need to find it locally, do the same thing I did and visit the website. My impression is that this company is the real deal. They are quality conscious as well as customer responsive.)

So now my counter has multiple bottles of olive oil from California Olive Ranch and still that bottle of Zatis. I do horde my California Olive Ranch olive oil a little, meaning I won't put it in a saute pan, and I won't abandon my Zatis. I am one of those loyal cooks who stays with a choice of product and brand until something significant happens. But I don't expect anything to deter me from these ... and I won't be experimenting with olive oils again for quite sometime.

P.S. I think that America's Test Kitchens just discovered California Olive Ranch olive oils. Maybe my personal criteria for food products has merit! Well, truthfully, I don't really care who agrees with me. I like what I like, and that's it for me.

Friday, July 1, 2011

Burma Charlotte

When I was a kid, we did take those Sunday drives during which I often saw those Burma Shave signs. Of course I loved them, reading them aloud with great enthusiasm and anticipation for the concluding rhyme, then getting to sing out "Burma Shave!" But I never understood why the product was called Burma Shave. What did Burma have to do with it?

Decades later, as I pursued my love of adventure and exploration, particularly through food and cooking, I again discovered Burma. In my first Burmese restaurant experience, I tasted a fried rice with chopped bits of dried exotic (papaya and coconut) and ordinary (currants) fruits and a back bite of heat, probably from Tabasco Sauce. Wow! Then came the green papaya and green tea salads with the crunchy lentils, dried shrimp, and crisp fried garlic slices. Those had a back bite of vinegar--a favorite! And fish ball soup and garlic oil noodles. I still remember less of the entrees than the side dishes, the ordinary fare that accompanied any Burmese meal. Those dishes that "held" the main dishes in place were amazing and intriguing. Unique and enduring.

Shortly after several visits to Burmese restaurants around the Bay Area, I reached the point when I had to learn more. So off I went in search of Burmese cookbooks, old and new, with and without pictures, family produced or big publishing house extravaganzas. Instead of curling up with a good book, I would curl over a variety of books opened out on the dining room table, reading page after page of recipes and stories of Burma. And the stories or filler were the most amazing part of the experience.

Do you know the various countries that border Burma? The big three are Thailand, China, and India, each with magnificent cuisines of their own, original to their own historic events and tempered by the invasions or attempted invasions of their many rivals. Yet Burma has an innate, original and vital cuisine all its own. Yes, bits of influence have infiltrated, mostly because ingredients exist as "natives" of all four countries. But still Burma's vibrant cuisine is sustained and unique because of its strength of character. Just as the big three can invade another culture for the same reason--strength of character--these cultures could not dominate or really influence the destiny of indigenous, centuries-old Burmese cooking. Impressive and totally understandable to anyone familiar with all four cuisines.

And therein lies the reason for this first post.

I grew up in a family where the food of my immigrant parents was central to our household "culture." My mother was a trained cook--not chef--from different European traditions, historical moments, and cultural experiences. She was born to a large Ashkenazi Jewish family from Russia living in a Polish shtetl outside Lublin who was abandoned as child to a Catholic convent hospital in the outskirts of Vienna, Austria, between the great wars. Then as she survived the illness that had previously been thought to be her demise, she was taught to cook the "peasant" or middle-class cuisines of Austria and Vienna, as well as to rekindle the recipes of her shtetl life. Finally she was brought into the home of a large and rich German family in Hamburg, Germany, where she cooked and cared for the children. There she was expected to add the family favorites of not only a German Jewish family, my father's family, but one whose own heritage included generations pre-Inquisition in Spain. Her cooking skills and art were legendary throughout my childhood, where she added new recipes of a growing "American" sensibility toward food and dishes. Of course her cooking would be the centerpiece of such a family and of my childhood experiences.

But I also grew up in the East Bay of California, that eastern area across the bay from San Francisco. And San Francisco, an enormous treat and special city when I was small, was only a Greyhound ride away, maybe forty minutes with a stopover in the Oakland terminal. So I was also exposed to all the immigrant populations of this thriving Bay Area from the Chinese and Japanese, to the Italians, the Russians, the Greeks, and of course the Black communities as well as Mexican Americans and Filipino Americans in my own hometown. Everywhere I turned there came the fragrances of different foods cooking, different peoples asserting their cultural heritage. I in effect was Burma, surrounded on my borders by a vast array of extraordinary and vibrant cultures and cooking traditions.

I'm grateful for my heritage with food. My experiences and relationships with people often grow and develop around a table and a meal. But it's not just the ingesting of nutrients--I think of that saying "Eat to Live, Rather Than Live to Eat" and realize that those who say it don't mean what I mean. I live by the food I eat because it's so often the catalyst or answer to who are we, why are we this way, what will become of us, and how are we doing. All that is "Eating to Live" to me.

So, yes, I see myself as Burma Charlotte.